Tools (was: IBM 5155 analogue display fault

Tony Duell ard at p850ug1.demon.co.uk
Mon May 30 14:05:06 CDT 2005


> "reasonably complete" is a VERY subjective quantification.

I would agree...

> Back when I was actively working on cars, I considered "reasonably
> complete" spanners and sockets to consist of:
> 
> [RARELY used] open end wrenches of all sizes used (MAC were best)

I like the Facom combination spanners (ring (==box-end?) at one end, and 
a hooked open end at the other). They're effectively self-ratcheting and 
save a lot of time when working in a confined space.

Don't be afraid to use 2 different tools to tighten (or loosen) a nut. 
E.g. a Facom open-end to get it fairly tight, then a ring spanner to get 
it fully done. The former is a lot better than a flat-at-a-time with a 
ring spanner :-)


> Ratcheting box ends in 6 and 12 point (SNAP-ON)

I've never found much use for those. The ends are so large they won't 
fit into the sort of space whrre a ratchet spanner would be useful.

Facom (again) do some lovely spanners that are effectively ratchet rings 
that you can open to fit round a pipe, then clamp onto the union nut to 
loosen/tighten it. The only problem is that they are _very_ expensive.


> "obstruction" wrenches (box end in C and S shapes, and with odd offsets)

Very useful...

Also : Those ring spanners with a gap in the ring to fit pipe unions 
(much nicer than using open-end spanners).

Similar, but with a flange over one side of the fing so you can force the 
union nut in place. If you've ever tried to re-fit a Citroen hydraulic 
union in a confined space you'll know why I have a set :-)

> 1/4 inch thin wall 6 point sockets
> 1/4 inch thin wall 12 point sockets
> 3/8 inch thin wall 6 point sockets
> 3/8 inch thin wall 12 point sockets
> 3/8 inch thin wall 12 point flank drive sockets (SNAP-ON)
> 3/8 inch thin wall deep sockets in 6 and 12 point
> 3/8 inch impact 6 point sockets
> 3/8 inch 8 point sockets

I've never needed the 3/8" drive sockets. Where I need more torque than 
can be applied with a1/4" drive, there's enough room for a 1/2" socket. 
On the other hand, a 3/8" drive (or adapter) is essential, many timing 
belt tensioners have a 3/8" hole in the plate which you use to untension 
or tension them.

> 1/2 inch thin wall 6 and 12 point regular and deep sockets
> 1/2 inch impact sockets
> 1/2 inch 8 point sockets
> 3/4 inch impact sockets
> 1 inch impact sockets (only a few sizes, such as 36 and 46 mm)

I've never nneded anything over 3/4" drive to work on a car. The largest 
torque wrench we have here has a 3/4" drive and goes up to 350lb.ft, so I 
guess that's strong enough :-)

Don't forget the odd sizes. Very few UK spanner sets include 11/32", but 
I had to dash out and get an open-end spanner in that size to get the 
back panel off an HP9810 calculator. There are 2 nuts on T-bolts going 
into the side panels that you have to undo, and that's the only tool that 
will do it. Fortunately the local (good) tool shop had one in stock, but 
it wasn't exactly cheap... (but then again, I never mind spending money 
on good tools).


> Vise-grips 5WR

I wonder what's considered to be a reasonable hand toolkit (i.e. not 
including test gear, soldering tools, etc) for classic computer repair. 
My starting list would be : 

Flat blade screwdrives from 0.8mm to 8mm tip width (at least
Phillips from size 000 to 2
Pozidrive from size 0 to 2
Torx drivers T6 to T30 (prefereably both L-shapered and handled ones. 
There are some ball-ended Torx which are very useful if access is difficult)
Tamperproof Torx from T10 to T30
Allen hex from 0.05" to 3/8" and 1.27mm to 8mm
Ball-eneded Allen hex of roughly the same sizes
Socket-set adapter + 'insert bits' for Allen and Torx are very useful if 
you need to use a torque wrench or similar.
Nutdrivers and/or sockets from 1/8" to 1/2" and 3mm to 12mm
Bristol spline keys :-)
Small precsion pliers for wire-bending, etc
Larger long-nose pliers
Normal pliers
Small slip-joint pliers (CK made/make a lovely pair about 4" long...)
Side cutters, end cuters in at least 2 sizes of each (for PCB work and 
larger wiring)
Tweezers. At least 2 pairs of non-magnetic ones. 

Many of the other tools in my toolbox are not really for computer repair 
-- things like a Jaxa watch case tool (but it fits the HP01...), a camera 
lens spanner wrench, valve remover/pin straightener. etc...

-tony


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